film for burning screens

Halftones for screen printing: lpi, angles, dot shape, film output

* Free to use — selecting, editing and every export run in your browser, and nothing is uploaded unless you start a step that says it will: the AI tools, background removal on its sharper engine (an in-browser engine is one click away under the same button), or upscaling a photograph (logos and flat artwork are enlarged on your device). A free account (Google, Apple or an emailed code — no card) is needed to download the finished file, and comes with credits for the server-side tools.

This renderer can produce 1-bit film files when halftoning is enabled. A screen lays down ink or no ink, so tone has to become a grid of dots whose size tracks the value — and the dots still have to survive your mesh, emulsion and press. Set frequency in lpi, space the screen angles to reduce interference, choose your dot shape, compensate for gain, and target 600 or 1200 dpi, or turn screening off for continuous-tone greys your RIP can screen. The ZIP manifest records the effective DPI if the 16,800px/200MP output caps clamp an oversized request. Paid output has not yet had its standing real-press validation, so test a plate before committing a run.

Halftone a separation

First: if you want a halftone look, this is not that

Two completely different things share the word "halftone". If you are after a retro comic-book or newsprint dot texture for a poster, a record sleeve, a web hero or an illustration — Ben-Day dots, big visible circles, a risograph vibe — you want a halftone *effect* filter, and there are a dozen free ones a search for "halftone effect generator" will hand you. This is not one of them: the output here is a separation plate, one per ink, at film resolution, screened at a chosen angle. It is intended for transparency film and screen exposure, subject to the same mesh, polarity and press test you would apply to any new output path. If nobody is going to burn a screen with it, use a design-effect filter instead.

The four numbers that decide a halftone

Frequency, in lines per inch, is how many rows of dots per inch — garment work typically runs 35 to 65 lpi. Angle is the rotation of the dot grid, and it matters because two grids at similar angles beat against each other and produce moiré. Dot shape — round, elliptical or square — changes how tones join up as they grow; elliptical dots are popular because they avoid the abrupt tonal jump round dots make at 50%, where round dots all touch their neighbours at once. Output DPI is the resolution of the film itself, and 600 or 1200 dpi is what determines how many distinct dot sizes the device can actually resolve at your chosen frequency. Set all four explicitly. Every one of them is a press decision, and a default that suits somebody else's shop is not a decision.

Mesh count sets your ceiling, not your taste

A screen cannot hold a dot finer than its own openings, so mesh is the hard constraint on frequency and the number to start from. The rule of thumb in general circulation puts mesh count somewhere around four to five-and-a-half times your lpi — so 45 lpi sits comfortably on 205 mesh, and 55 lpi on 305 is a real, commonly-run pairing at the upper end of that band — and going finer than your mesh supports does not produce a finer print, it produces dots that break up, fill in, or wash out of the emulsion. Finer mesh is also more fragile and more of your week spent restretching. And higher is not automatically better even when the mesh can take it: a bold one-colour design that reads clean and solid at 35 lpi can come off faded at 55 because the dots holding the light end have gone too delicate to print reliably. Pick the coarsest frequency that holds the detail the artwork actually has.

Angles spaced to reduce interference

For four-colour process the renderer uses the conventional C 15°, M 75°, Y 0°, K 45° set. For simulated process it selects from a table of eight separated angles; with more than eight colour plates, angles repeat and the manifest explicitly warns that some pairs can moiré. You can enter your own angle list when your shop has a set proven on its mesh, emulsion, substrate and output device. An angle table reduces one source of interference; it cannot guarantee a pattern-free print.

Dot gain, the reason process prints go muddy

Ink spreads. A 50% dot on film can become something well past 50% on fabric, and the effect is worst in the midtones where a print has the most to lose. Dot gain compensation applies an inverse curve before screening to pull the requested tone back toward the intended printed value. The slider is not a measured press profile: gain depends on mesh, emulsion thickness, ink, squeegee and substrate. Print a step wedge on the setup you actually use, read where it lands, and record that value as a starting point while those variables stay the same.

Choose between RIP input and screened film

A RIP wants to do its own screening. Feed it continuous-tone grayscale plates — one greyscale image per ink, in register, at the intended print geometry — and it applies its own frequency, angle set and dot shape with curves tuned for the output device it drives. Screen the plates first and hand it 1-bit film and you get two dot grids fighting: the RIP re-screens your dots and you moiré against your own artwork. In this workspace, Spot and Index begin with halftoning off, while selecting CMYK or Simulated process turns it on; choose the switch deliberately rather than treating either state as a universal default. Turn it off for continuous-tone plates when you print through AccuRIP, Wasatch, FilmMaker or anything similar. Leave it on for pre-halftoned 1-bit film when you print to an inkjet or laser through a plain driver with no RIP in the chain, and set frequency, shape, angle set and target output DPI explicitly. Either way every plate in a render uses the same canvas geometry, so nothing shifts between films; for an oversized halftone request, the manifest records the common effective DPI after the 16,800px/200MP cap. One practical reason the screening is the paid half: a 14-inch plate targeting 1200 dpi is 16,800 pixels along that dimension, which is genuinely painful in a browser tab on a shop PC.

It comes with the separation, not instead of it

Halftoning is applied per plate as part of the print-ready render, so the same 10 credits that separate the image also screen it: choked underbase, highlight white, per-ink choke and spread, dot gain, halftone and registration marks. Re-renders of that image are free for 24 hours, so trying 45 lpi against 55 lpi, or round against elliptical, costs nothing but the time to look — and a day is long enough to burn one and print it before you decide. If all you need is flat spot plates with no tone, you never need halftoning at all — and that path is free and runs in your browser. There is no separate automatic-trapping control in the shipped workspace.

Or skip halftones entirely

Index separation is the escape hatch. Every dot is the same size at 100% ink, tone comes from dot density, and because there are no varying dot sizes there is no angle set to choose and no rotated grid for the next plate to interfere with — moiré stops being the thing you manage. It is coarser than a good halftone and more graphic in character, but it is far more forgiving on press, and on textured garments and older equipment it frequently wins outright. Index separation is free and runs in your browser.

Frequently asked

I just want a comic-book halftone look for a poster — is this it?

No. This produces separation plates for burning screens: one per ink, screened at separated angles intended to reduce interference, at film resolution. The angle set cannot guarantee a pattern-free print; test it with your output device, mesh and substrate. For a decorative dot texture you want a halftone effect filter — search "halftone effect generator" and you will find several free ones that do exactly that job better than a printer's tool would.

What lpi should I use for shirts?

Commonly 35 to 65 lpi, and mesh is the ceiling — the rule of thumb is mesh count around four to five-and-a-half times the lpi, so 45 lpi sits comfortably on 205 mesh and 55 lpi pairs with 305. Start at the low end on coarse mesh, textured garments and older equipment. Finer than your mesh can hold does not print finer; it just falls apart.

Which dot shape is best?

Elliptical is a common default because it avoids the visible tonal jump round dots produce when they all touch their neighbours at once around 50%. Round is simplest and very predictable; square holds shadow detail differently. All three are available, and for 24 hours after a render you can re-render to compare them on your own file at no extra cost.

How do I stop moiré?

Start by separating the plate angles and using a frequency your mesh and output device can hold. Auto supplies distinct angles for up to eight colour plates; above that it repeats them and warns in the manifest. You can override the list with a set proven on your press. Lowering frequency or switching to index removes the rotated process grids, but neither is a guarantee against every mesh, substrate or repeated-dither pattern.

Should I send my RIP halftoned film or grayscale plates?

Grayscale, almost always. A RIP screens the plates itself with curves tuned to its output device, and pre-screened film gives it a dot grid to re-screen, which moirés against your own artwork. Use 1-bit pre-halftoned film only when there is no RIP in the chain — printing to an inkjet or laser through a plain driver.

Is the screening free?

No — screening and high-DPI plate rendering run on our server, at 10 credits per image with free re-renders of that image for 24 hours, so comparing 45 lpi against 55, or round against elliptical, costs nothing. Flat spot separation and index separation are the free, client-side paths, and index needs no halftoning at all.

Can I halftone plates I separated somewhere else?

Not as a standalone screening pass. You load artwork, separate it here, and the render screens the plates it generated — the angle assignment depends on knowing your ink count and ordering. It is a separation tool with screening built in, not a dot filter you point at finished film.

Keep reading

Free online color separationSimulated process color separationCMYK separation for screen printingIndex separation — solid dots, no angle setHow to halftone separations in Photoshop by hand

Related

How to create a white underbase for dark garmentsRaster to vector for screen printing: turning a customer JPEG into platesAn UltraSeps alternative that does not sit inside PhotoshopA Separation Studio alternative with no annual bill and no trial clockA T-Seps alternative with no Photoshop plug-in or locale dependencyColor separation services charge per design. Your everyday jobs do not have to.How to separate colors in Photoshop for screen printingTurn a flat image into a PSD with real layers